We’ve been putting the Clutch through it’s paces for a couple of months now, and this piece of gear really does live up to the hype.This latest innovation in rescue and rope access hardware will really enable rope access and rope rescue professionals to do more with less. Moral of the story: Block the clutch fork while bleeding and adjust the pedal and you should be good.The CMC Clutch: Intuitive, Efficient and Simple Normal shifting is still perfect (it always was) but now redline shifting and no lift shifting have zero delays. After readjusting the pedal, I took it back out and it's perfect.
Now the pedal is firm from top to bottom. Right off the bat I had a few bubbles come out that I guess were hiding inside the slave cylinder.
So yesterday I put a block between the frame rail and the clutch fork and bled that way. I always had a knagging suspicion that the problem was in the bleeding. Well I did, and while I didn't get the full on lockout, I did notice a slight resistance, maybe a half second or so before it would glide into gear at redline. Now after break in was done and the pedal was much softer, I figured I'd go romp on it a bit and see how it would really behave. Since I changed the clutch and cmc at the same time, I chalked it up to just "I guess that's what its gonna feel like." It rowed through the gears effortlessly through break in so I didn't think much of it. I thought it worked great at first, although I did notice a bit of sponge at the top of the pedal. I did not block the movement of the clutch fork with a block or whatever. When I initially bled my line, I did the "normal 2 person" method where one's on the pedal and one's on the bleeder. I will share some insight into an issue I had bleeding the clutch line. I will say this, pedal adjustment and proper clutch line bleeding are crucial. I have zero lockouts beating on it now with the TSP1+.
I just crossed the milage threshold this past weekend and have been meaning to update this thread.
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